Caring for Rabbits

|  HOME  |  FOOT  |

Back to   Rabbits   page

Bedding
Chemicals
Diarrhoea
Diet
Exercise
Flystrike
Grooming
Handling
House Rabbits
Hutch
Looking Unwell
Mites
Nails
Neutering
Teeth
Toys
Vaccination
Vitamins/Supplements
Walkies!
Water


Bedding

 | Top  |  List  |  Foot  |

We use about 5 centimetres of woodshavings on the floor of the hutch, with 4 inches in depth in the 'bathroom' area.   The 'bedroom' area has straw or hay for comfort and warmth.   You could also use shredded paper.

Rabbits are clean animals and generally use one area of their hutch as their bathroom.   Ideally this soiled area should be changed every day to avoid a build up which will smell - not nice for the rabbit, but it will also attract flies.   A complete clean out can be done once a week.

When cleaning, save a small amount of unsoiled bedding which can then be put back in the hutch - it will smell of your rabbit so make him feel at home.



Chemicals

 | Top  |  List  |  Foot  |

Rabbits love to eat so if you let them run around in your garden check that any chemicals you use in your garden are not harmful to your rabbits.   Check the product to see if it is 'harmful to pets'.   Slug pellets, insecticide sprays, creasote, fertilisers, etc can all be harmful to rabbits.



Diarrhoea

 | Top  |  List  |  Foot  |

If your rabbit has diarrhoea contact your vet as this can be harmful to your rabbit.   Your rabbit will need plenty of water to stop dehydration; supplements can be added to water with vital trace elements and vitamins.   Because diarrhoea empties the gut, 'good' bacteria are lost - my vet advised giving a bio-active yoghurt to help replace the bacteria, but my rabbit wasn't very impressed and only managed a small amount.

And watch out for flies - flystrike is extremely nasty.



Diet

 | Top  |  List  |  Foot  |

We've all seen Bugs Bunny chewing on a carrot and think lettuce is the staple diet of rabbits.   Well it isn't.   Captive rabbits are different to wild rabbits and need a careful diet, prepared and chosen by you.   Rabbits' tummies upset easily, so it is best to keep to a regular diet.   Decide from the outset whether you will feed your rabbit fresh food as well as dried, or just stick to dried.   Personally I think rabbits should eat fresh, but all their needs are contained in dry mix, and it may be difficult to regularly give fresh food in the winter months.   However, it makes things much nicer for the rabbit to have different tastes and textures - how would you like to have the same food day after day after day?

Despite popular belief, lettuce, carrots and cabbage are not particularly good for rabbits as they can give them the 'runs', so keep the quantity to a small amount.   Other foods they enjoy are dandelions (leaves and flowers) and these are good as they contain calcium, broccolli leaves/stalks, clover, cauliflower leaves, not forgetting grass.   Jazz particularly liked grapes, and Rover loved pears and apples.   None of our rabbits have liked tomatoes, but they all enjoy chewing on the fruit tree prunings, both for the bark and the leaves.

It is important not to over feed rabbits.   Apart from all the usual problems associated with being overweight, they need to be able to groom all over their body, and fat will just get in their way.   They also need to be able to reach their rear end - a rabbit's digestive system requires they eat their food twice.   Although it sounds horrid to us humans, rabbits must eat their droppings to extract all the nutrients.   (The first time through food comes out soft and is eaten up by the rabbit.   The hard, round droppings you see in the hutch are the final waste product.)

Rabbits should have access to plenty of hay.   This gives good roughage in their diet and is also good for their teeth.   It is a good idea to keep the hay off the floor so it does not become soiled or mixed up with the bedding.   We use small hay racks which are at head height for the rabbits.



Exercise

 | Top  |  List  |  Foot  |

Rabbits enjoy running around, investigating, digging, and eating things they find!   They are bored just sitting in a hutch all the time and this doesn't make for a happy rabbit.   You wouldn't keep a dog in just one room, so why keep a rabbit in just a hutch?   I personally believe that if you are going to be responsible for the welfare of an animal you should take care of it properly.   If you don't have room for a rabbit to run around, then you shouldn't have a rabbit.

If you use a run for your rabbit, make sure there is an area for shelter from the heat of the sun, or from the rain.   I've seen some hutches with a run under the hutch, with a sloped board coming out of the bottom of the hutch down to the floor level giving the rabbits access all the time.  

As rabbits love to dig it is a good idea to line the run with some wire.   We used some cheap chicken wire on the floor and the grass grows through it so the wire cannot be seen.   If you don't line the run with wire, you will need to have the sides of the run go underground for at least 12 inches (30 cm) or they will simply dig their way out!   Another thing rabbits are good at is jumping.   If you have no top on the run, it is best to have the sides at least 3 feet (1 metre) high.

Mobile rabbit runs - quite often triangular - may not need to be lined with wire as your rabbit may not be in the one place long enough to dig an escape tunnel.   The downside of these runs is they are always so small, I suppose because they wouldn't be very mobile if they were bulky and heavy.   Its great to see a rabbit hopping and jumping around - something they cannot do in a confined space.

Our (main) rabbit run was to the side of Lil's hutch.   There was a cat flap in the side of the hutch to allow access to the run during day time, but can be locked at night.   The run is lined with wire, and the sides are at least 1 metre high to prevent them jumping out.   Our rabbits were lucky to have another area to play in where they could dig to their hearts content in gravel, which has the added benefit of keeping their nails trim too!



Flystrike

 | Top  |  List  |  Foot  |

Flystrike is nasty so do your best to avoid it by being vigilant and keeping your rabbit and hutch clean.   During the warmer months flies want to lay their eggs and are looking for suitable places, just like the toilet area of a rabbit hutch or a rabbit's dirty bottom.

Keep the hutch clean - it doesn't take a lot of time to scoop out soiled material and replace with fresh each day.

And do check your rabbit's bottom to make sure it is kept clean.   If your rabbit is overweight or old he may not be able to clean the fur around this area and it can become messy so you must do this for him.   If a fly lays eggs the maggots can crawl inside the bottom and will kill your rabbit.   Very painful for your poor rabbit, and upsetting for you.   If you do spot a maggot on your rabbit take him immediately to your vet as things can be done if caught early enough and not too many maggots have not got inside.   If the rabbit cannot be saved at least the vet can euthanise the rabbit so he doesn't suffer any more.

During very hot weather we used a spray which contained natural ingredients that flies and other insects avoid to prevent flystrike.



Grooming

 | Top  |  List  |  Foot  |

Rabbits look so cute when they are grooming themselves - and they groom often.   Some breeds have longer hair and may need help to avoid matting.   An overweight rabbit will find it difficult to reach some important areas, so check and groom him yourself before a problem develops.   Basil lost huge amounts of fur in the spring and autumn - great clumps would form which I removed before he licked them.   One time his digestive system blocked up with hair so a trip to the vet was needed.



Handling

 | Top  |  List  |  Foot  |

Never pick up a rabbit by the ears - it hurts them.   Would you like to be picked up by your ears?   Your rabbit needs to feel safe when being picked up or he may become frightened and struggle.   The best way to pick up a rabbit is to support him underneath with one hand and hold the scruff of their neck with the other.   This is easy once you have got the hang of it and doesn't hurt them.

Try not to let the back legs dangle and this can lead to spine problems.   When you hold your rabbit try to make him feel safe by holding him well supported against your body.   To your rabbit you are a giant you've just picked him up - how frightening is that?

The more you handle a rabbit the more friendly he will become.   Do not expect a rabbit to like being picked up to start with, but as a rabbit becomes used to you he will learn to trust you and become less worried by being picked up.



House Rabbits

 | Top  |  List  |  Foot  |

You may allow your rabbit to run around inside your house.   I've not had a house rabbit before so don't know the joys and perils of indoor rabbits, but I would suggest you take sensible measures to protect not only the rabbits, but your belongings as well.   Biting through an electric cable would be no trouble for a rabbit's strong teeth, but can kill your rabbit.   As can some house plants.   You'll need a litter box and time to train your rabbit to use it.



Hutch

 | Top  |  List  |  Foot  |

Hutches need to be secure, warm and water proof.   Most hutches I have seen on sale in pet shops are far too small unless there is constant access to an exercise area.   A hutch should have at least two areas - a large area for your rabbit to feed, groom and play, and a smaller area with plenty of bedding, preferably dark, where they can go to rest and feel safe.

A hutch should be positioned in a sheltered place for protection against wind and rain and not where sunlight will overheat the rabbit.   The fronts of our hutches have three parts - one section is wood (for darkness) and the other two are wire.   During winter we put a wooden front on one wire section and a hard plastic sheet on the other section, to give protection against the cold and rain.   (If you use plastic sheeting take it off during the day time if the sun is shining as the hutch may become too warm.)

You may consider moving a hutch into a garage or shed during winter, but remember rabbits have fur coats and shouldn't be made too warm.   Also consider if moved to a garage fumes from cars may not be good for your rabbit!   I haven't needed to move our hutches during winter, but we do make sure there is much more bedding than in warmer months and we put those covers over the wire fronts.   We also put water bottles inside the hutch to stop them freezing - if the bottle is inside the hutch and it still freezes, it is probably too cold for your rabbit too.   I sometimes put in a large cardboard box into the nesting/bedroom area and surround it with hay for extra insulation - the trouble is the rabbits usually think it is a new toy or try to eat it.

Hutches need to be strong enough to protect your rabbit from preditors like foxes and rats.   Wire should be strong enough to withstand a determined fox and, of course, to stop your rabbit biting through it in an escape bid.



Looking unwell

 | Top  |  List  |  Foot  |

A rabbit doesn't have sharp claws or large fangs - it's form of defence is to run away from danger.   They have excellent hearing and eyesight to help them detect danger as soon as possible so can run fast to escape.   It is vital rabbits do not show weakness to preditors so they are very good at hiding illness.

If your rabbit looks unwell, take it seriously.   Contact your vet - they will know a poorly looking rabbit is already ill and should act promptly.



Mites

 | Top  |  List  |  Foot  |

Rabbits can be affected by mites which can irritate them, leading to fur loss and infection.   Mites can transfer from other rabbits, but also inanimate objects such as bedding.   Injections, drops or sprays can be used to treat rabbits to rid them of mites.   I use a spray as a preventative measure - it is made of natural ingredients, can be sprayed on the rabbit and/or hutch and the mites don't like it so move on.



Nails

 | Top  |  List  |  Foot  |

Captive rabbits nails will need trimming from time to time.   Our rabbits only have theirs trimmed about twice a year because they are able to do lots of digging (in gravel as well as soil) which wears them down.

You can take the rabbit to the vet or if you are brave, do it yourself!   If your rabbit is not used to being handled I would suggest going to the vet as they are much more experienced at dealing with a frightened rabbit than you are.   However, if you do cut the nails yourself, you should consider buying animal nail clippers because scissors may not be strong enough.

Look at the nail.   You should see a tiny blood vessel coming out of the toe and into the nail.   Black nails do not show the blood vessel so my advise is to go to the vet and let them deal with the problem.   Aim to cut the nail about 3 or 4 millimetres past the end of the blood vessel.   If you cut the vessel it will hurt very much so unless you are confident, do not attempt to cut the nails.



Neutering

 | Top  |  List  |  Foot  |

Rabbits main aim in life is to have baby rabbits.   If you have a male and female rabbit you are almost bound to end up with babies at some point - their reproducing urge is very strong and their ability to escape means you could hear the patter of many tiny feet.

It is a comparitively simple operation to have a male neutered - it may not stop him wanting to make babies, but will stop him being able to.   For females the operation is more serious, but will mean there definitely won't be any babies, even if a neighbour's male rabbit escapes from his garden into yours!



Sunlight

 | Top  |  List  |  Foot  |

Rabbits enjoy being in sunshine - watch your rabbit rub/lick its ears when it has been in the sun.   Rabbits ears produce vitamin C from sunshine - very clever!   However, on a sunny day make sure your rabbit can go to a shelter as the sun can also cause sun stroke and overheat them.



Teeth

 | Top  |  List  |  Foot  |

I have had a few rabbits with teeth problems, and it seems to be quite a common problem.   Part of this is due to breeding from parents with teeth problems and part is due to diet.

Rabbits teeth continually grow, like our nails do.   Problems arise when the teeth do not line up as they should so do not wear down properly.   Front teeth can become long and make it impossible to eat.   Back teeth can grow small spurs and cause ulcers on the tongue or cheeks.

Another good reason for handling your rabbit often is so you can do regular checks - look at the front teeth to make sure they are okay.   If they become too long you will need to go to the vet who can cut them down to the correct size, or even take the teeth out.   If your rabbit's diet lacks enough calcium the jaw may not be as strong as it should be and enable the front teeth to move and grow at the wrong angle and thus not align with its corresponding upper/lower teeth.   Rabbit pellets have added calcium, but you can also buy a powder supplement to sprinkle on food.   Dandilion leaves and clover are a good source of calcium.

Problems with back teeth are more difficult to see - in fact I've never seen any back teeth in a rabbit as they seem to have so much cheek/lips/tongue in the way!   If you notice your rabbit has a bit of wetness around the mouth, it could be caused by sharp back teeth rubbing and causing soreness, making them dribble so you should take him to the vet to have this checked.   Another sign is more obvious - it hurts to eat, so your rabbit may go off its food.   Usually an operation is needed to file down these sharp spurs, but the treatment is necessary or your rabbit will stop eating.

There are a few things you can try to help prevent tooth problems.   A source of calcium for density, plenty of hay to eat helps grind the teeth, and a piece of wood (perhaps cut from a fruit tree) gives them something to gnaw on, all of which may help.



Toys

 | Top  |  List  |  Foot  |

Rabbits are fun creatures who will become bored if there is nothing for them to do.   There seems very little available in shops in the way of toys to amuse rabbits - I suppose because their teeth are so sharp it is difficult to make things strong enough.   But you can improvise, and here are a few suggestions:

Hang a fir cone on string (not nylon) from the hutch ceiling, so it dangles about 5-6 inches off the floor.   Rabbits will spend hours trying to 'catch' it in their mouth, or try to destroy it because it is in their way.

If you have an old small teddy you don't want anymore try putting it in the hutch.   Make sure there are no dangerous bits - when a rabbit bites through it there may be hidden sharp bits.   Whereas bedding is replaced, this toy will always smell of the rabbit and be comforting.

A small ball - preferably one that cannot be bitten.   Remember that plastic is not a natural part of a rabbit's diet!

The cardboard tube inside a roll of toilet tissue, or kitchen roll is great fun for them to play with.   It eventually ends up shredded, but will give amusement while it lasts.

Put a piece of tube or pipe in the run - one wide enough for a rabbit to run through, but not longer than your arm - the middle of a pipe is a good place to be when someone is trying to catch you!

Old telephone directories.   Rabbits love ripping up the paper.

Cut tree branches make a good play place - all that investigating of smells, funny shapes to climb through and maybe even a snack to be found.

Rabbits love to dig.   Ours love autumn when the vegetable patch is empty so they can play there.   I've observed that generally males tend to dig on the surface (looking for food?) whereas females try to dig long tunnels.   I read that in the wild most male rabbits will die during winter because they stay above ground level.   Female rabbits go into their burrows and avoid the worst of the weather.   Lil particularly loves to dig and sometimes she is hardly recognisable because she is covered in mud.   Great fun!



Vaccination

 | Top  |  List  |  Foot  |

Rabbits can be vaccinated against myxomatosis and HVD and you will need to go to your vet for this.   Both are nasty diseases and can be prevented.   Leaflets available at your vet's practice can help you decide whether to have your rabbits vaccinated.



Vitamins/Supplements

 | Top  |  List  |  Foot  |

There are plenty of vitamin type supplements available for rabbits, but the best nutrition is found in a good diet.   Konijn needed a powder sprinkled on her food, which had added calcium to help strengthen her teeth.   When a rabbit is/has been ill I add a vitamin product to the water bottle.



Walkies

 | Top  |  List  |  Foot  |

Rabbits can be taken out for walks, but only if they are securely attached to a lead.   You shouldn't use a collar as rabbits necks and heads are the wrong shape and they can wriggle out of one.   You will need to buy a harness strong enough to withstand those sharp teeth - even specially make rabbit harnesses can be too flimsy to withstand a rabbit's bite, so look for a leather harnesses meant for tiny dogs.   The harness will need to go around their two front paws, chest and back - if it doesn't fit properly the rabbit can escape.

Your rabbit will need to feel confident in your ability to defend him if you take him out, so you will need to have a good relationship.   Start by getting the rabbit used to the harness and walking around your own garden.   When the rabbit is totally comfortable with that, try going to the front of your home.   Rabbits run away from noises so avoid traffic and areas where children play on bikes/skateboards etc.

Be aware of the dangers if you do take your rabbits out for walks.   Dogs love the taste of rabbits!   Make sure you look out for broken glass or anything they can cut themselves on, and look out for slug pellets and rat poison. Check with your local council to see if your local park is sprayed with chemicals.   Be ready to pick up your rabbit out of harms way at the first sign of danger - and think about what your rabbit considers dangererous.

Be aware that not all rabbits will like going for walks.   Not all humans like the same activities - some love to skydive and some don't!   Respect your rabbit's right not to like this big adventure!



Water

 | Top  |  List  |  Foot  |

Rabbits need a constant supply of clean, fresh water.   Do not let the bottle become dirty - would you like to drink dirty water?   Most rabbits seem to use bottles, but if yours uses a bowl it will need checking to make sure the contents have not spilt or been soiled when your rabbit walks through it!

Back to   Rabbits   page

HOME       Contact Us       Errors       Family Surnames       Introduction       Lea Family     Main Index       Rabbits       Us       Xmas Newsletters       Your Photo       TOP

This page was last updated on 7th July 2007.